Canh bun – Morning glory noodle soup

August 19th, 2010

Not as well-known as its sister, bun rieu, and usually being mistaken with it by most people, but canh bun is still special and flavored by many Saigonese. And of course, it’s far away from the Vietnamese food handbook of tourists …

canh bun 1

Canh bun oc (morning glory snail noodle soup)

Once, I asked my boyfriend if he ever tried canh bun, and the answer was obviously ‘no’. Seems like canh bun just exists in the local world, and his innocent curiosity pushed up my passion of blogging about canh bun.

Canh bun is so much a like bun rieu, but much simpler and cheaper in many ways. We use the same crab tomato base broth for both, but canh bun has big round noodles and eaten with boiled morning glory (aka water spinach or rau muong).

Canh bun Bun rieu
Crab tomato base broth Crab tomato base broth
Big round rice noodles (same as bun bo hue) Vermicelli
The noodles are cooked together with the broth The noodles are left aside
Boiled morning glory Raw herb platter

Perhaps, because of its similarity with bun rieu, canh bun is usually sold together with bun rieu in the same cart which contains a hot pan of crab tomato base broth on one side, and on the other side are some small jars (shrimp paste, tamarind sauce, chili paste).

canh bun 2

A colorful bowl of canh bun oc, crab tomato base broth and topped with blood jelly, tomatoes, fried-tofu, crab-meat cake, snails, tamarind sauce, and some herbs !

When I was small, a bowl of canh bun was just simply big orange noodles occupying a half of the bowl, and the other half was abundance of green boiled morning glory, on top of the bowl was few pieces of  blood jelly, ah, some dried shrimp in the orange broth. Finally, added some shrimp paste. And it cost 2000 vnd.

Now, canh bun has more diversity and has richer performance as you can add fried tofu, cha (Vietnamese pork sausage), crab-meat cake,  or snails (canh bun oc) as you choice. However, it still keeps the charm of crab tomato base broth, shrimp paste, blood jelly, and its most special boiled morning glory !

canh bun 5

Canh bun oc is eaten with boiled morning glory.

My canh bun place was on Hoang Hoa Tham street, well, it wasn’t the best canh bun stand in Saigon for sure, but it was the only one I often popped in because it was near my place, and the taste was satisfying enough. Oh, let me tell you one more reason which kept me coming back there because the seller was cool as she let me take away the canh bun without paying because she didn’t have change for my money. (Well, with other sellers, they might try to change money somewhere and I might have to wait for an hour in the rain … )

canh bun 4

Available on Hoang Hoa Tham street

canh bun 3

Around 2 -5pm, 12000 vnd/a bowl of canh bun oc

Love to come back to Saigon one day for a bowl of canh bun, so see you, my beloved morning glory noodle soup, sometime soon !

h5n1

Korean restaurant in Manali

August 18th, 2010

Among the Tibetan food and the western style cuisine in Manali, the only one Korean restaurant in town, Yun cafe, which was expected to bring the different taste to us, had another policy of food time arrival !

yun cafe 1

Yun cafe ..

Just few days ago, we popped in, saw Korean foodies were sitting down on the floor and enjoying their food on the balcony area, a very common style of South-east Asian table. After a little while of thinking, we decided to sneak in a really small door (just for cows, I imagined !) which led us to a clay room, to be precisely, it looked more like a cave than a room … hoho, at least, there was tables and chairs inside, and a group of young Koreans were sitting on the floor and drinking Kingfisher !

yun cafe 2

The stair connects kitchen and dining rooms.

The menu arrived on our table, but oh, I felt like the Bible was in front of my eyes ! Not only that scary, we ordered two dishes in the menu book (fried pork cabbage with rice, kimchi soup with 4 side dishes and rice), but they seemed never come to our table …!

Sitting there for 15 minutes, and the young folks just got their first dish, by our eyes witness ! Since then, each dish by each dish, they all came to the young folks’ table, and until they finished all their food, we still had no food.

Exhaustedly, after nearly one hour had passed, the waiter just noticed us that our food was already done, then he left to go downstairs, and no signal from him for another 4 minutes … Allah ! no more ‘asseyo’ there, only two simple dishes, but what made them been too slow ? This made sense if they needed to pick cabbage from the garden, then did whatever to it become kimchi, or they might call the Korea side to ask them to export pork to here !

Finally, we saw some food, and the spicy cabbage pork on rice was interesting, perhaps, I’m South-est Asian, so rice, pork, sour spicy soup (very spicy), and the whole taste pleased me much, not my boyfriend, he felt like he was eating Tibetan food … !

In order to not waiting more for the bill, we went down straight to the kitchen and in hope to pay quick, oh no, another 10 or 15 minutes waiting for the waiter contacted the owner who was in the next building … She came out, asked us if we enjoyed our food ( … no comment here … ) Our evening total has gone.

yun cafe 3

View of Yun cafe from outside

I could say that I love the food without waiting and less effort.

Apple picking time !

August 17th, 2010

Apple time in Old Manali ! Let’s go to pick apples !

Oh did I tell you that Old Manali is the land of apples ? I think ‘yes’, apples here are the most impressive thing that are available almost everywhere and mind your head if you get hit by apples … as I always remember them first when I think of Old Manali.

picking apples red woman 0

A woman is picking apples on the tree.

Just on Saturday morning, we heard the chattering noise somewhere outside our balcony, so we looked out, and wow, some women were picking apples in the tree right in front of our window. I was really excited to see the picking scene which I’d just imagined before, oh well, thinking of I might have an apple picking job in England … Completely worth a whole morning to follow up the activity !

picking-apples-pink-woman-2

This woman too, standing on the branch and picking apples skillfully.

There was one surprise in the apple process here that the main force was women as most of the pickers were women and the carriers were young boys. I didn’t leave my chance of taking, passionately, an abundance of pictures, and making an ‘apple’ note while interviewing the owner of this business !

He was a middle-aged, wealthy-looking guy who was standing on the ground, supposing to help transferring the apples from hanging round baskets to big carrying baskets whenever they came down from somewhere on the tree where they were filled up with apples by the women.

pouring apples

Here is the owner ! he is pouring apples.

pouring apples close view

A close view of pouring apples

lifting apple basket up

Helping to lift up the empty basket after pouring the apples out

covering apple basket

Covering the 'full of apple' basket !

ready basket

One basket is ready !

traditional baskets

Traditional baskets (not sure they're made of bamboo ?), I still prefer this kind to the plastic ones ^_^

baskets ready

The second basket is filling up !

managing apple basket

Wow, the basket looks really heavy after filled up with all the apples !

I came and talked to him for a while about his apple business, and such a huge surprise, he told me he has 400 apple trees (very impressive number) ! As I couldn’t imagine them all, he drew a big circle by his hand and said all the apple trees on this land that I could see then belonged to him. On one tree, he can have 200 to 300 kg of apples, and he sells them with the price 40 to 50 rupees for per kg in Delhi ! Quite huge amount for me to count …

Then, I noticed it would take a long time to have one tree done as what I could see (about few thousands of apples in one tree ?). He said it would take two to three months to pick all the apples. By the time, he filled up a big carrying basket on the ground with apples, he said the basket could contain 40 kg of apples, so I guess he needed 5 to 8 baskets like that for one tree.

apple plastic basket

Wow ! Look at all the juicy apples in this plastic basket !

By the way, the picking job looked not as easy at all as what I thought because the pickers have to climb really high to reach all the apples on top of the branches, and have to pick in the right way so that the apples have stalks on them (oh no, I never be able to do this), required skill and experience.

picking apples 2 women

These women are working hard.

picking apples red woman 2

She offered me an apple, but I was very shy, so didn't take it ... regretting now ^_^

picking apples red woman 3

A scene of picking apples.

picking apples red woman 3

She is ready to release the 'full of apple' basket down !

pink woman apples

Among the apples ...

picking apples red woman sitting on a branch

Sitting on the branch and picking apples !

Okay, so what does he pay for per worker here ? Wow, 300 rupees for 6 hours of picking apples, really good money ($1 for per hour, of course not talking about England where you can get about 10 pounds for per hour, but it’s really higher than some of my friends* could earn in Saigon …)!

* See It’s Not a Sin When You Say, ‘No’

There were loads of apples falling down on the ground during the picking process, and I was really hoping that they wouldn’t be collected after all, hoho ! In the contrast, they were later collected separately … wanted to tell the owner that the apples love to be in my stomach than to be delivered to Delhi !

apples on the ground

Apples fell on the ground

hanging apple basket

Hanging apple basket on the tree

apple hanging basket

An apple basket is hung in the air !

hanging apple basket from the tree

Oh, one hanging apple basket is coming down

The apples would be transferred by carriers (I could see 2 boys) to his place where there were hand-made wooden boxes to contain the apples and transport to Delhi. Seemed like a big business to me.

carrying apples

A boy is carrying apples to a place that they will be boxed.

apple boxes

Apple boxes

making apple boxes

Making apple boxes

Just remember how easy when we picked apples while strolling around for a walk in different areas, but now, it seemed to be tight in our area, and I couldn’t feel free to have them here. Might need to walk a bit further ! Really love cut-apples and salt !

Indus river in Ladakh

August 15th, 2010

Nearby  Thiksey gompa area, we found the historical Indus river (or Sindhu river, as the locals call it), which powerfully flows through Indian Subcontinent. This river is very impressive to us because it’s physically existed on this Earth very long time – before the Stone Age !  According to List of river by age, the Indus is the ninth oldest river, plus,  it was an important part of ancient Harappan villagers’ life in the Bronze Age.

indus river

Indus river

In the modern history, the ‘populist’ river has nourished Himalayan villagers from generation to generation. It is the main and the most important river in Ladakh, and if you ask me if it related to the incident Leh flood (posted in three blogs, today’s news-flood in Leh, update on flooding in Leh, images of Leh after the flood), my answer is probably ‘yes’ !

The water level got overwhelming after the heavy rain fall, so it caused the severe flood in Leh town and areas nearby, such as the majority town of the Tibetans, Choglamsar which lies close to the river, where bodies are probably still buried under the mud.

In contrast, continuing our getaway in 2008, we had a great time there, looking at the river flowing peacefully and strolling around Thiksey area !

truck bridge

Truck on the bridge

This beautiful scene appeared in front of our eyes while we were eager to see a big iron bridge ! And we were not forgetting to take a photo of us …

couple at bridge

Smile !

white flowers

Abundance of cute unknown white flowers !

mountains valley

Impressive mountainous valley view

in the bus

This is a common scene of Indian buses ...

On the way back, we nestled ourselves in a very typical busy Indian bus which is hard to believe if there is a space to breathe …

Getaway diary – Thiksey

August 14th, 2010

Oh you know, surrounding Leh, there are many places worth to visit and discover. Just looked at the pictures we had in our getaway to Thiksey, and wow, I really miss it, esp, at this time when we cannot go back there because of the bad condition of the Manali-Leh road.

In 2008, after ‘digging and scooping’ most parts of Leh, we made a getaway trip by a local bus from the bus stand to Thiksey Gompa, which was about 18 kms away, was the most giant and impressive Tibetan monastery with the largest Buddha (Maitreya) in Ladakh. However, we didn’t try to visit the storeys inside the Gompa because the view outside was obviously lovely, so we spent most of our time in strolling around instead of looking for the monks …

thiksey gompa leaves

Thiksey gompa

thiksey gompa side view

A side view of Thiksey gompa

sunflowers

Sunflowers beside the gompa

thiksey gompa close view

A close view of Thiksey gompa

full view

Decorated door in the gompa

detail view

Detail view of the decoration of the gompa door

gompa hill view

A far view of Thiksey gompa

field view

Lovely surrounding view !

alone view

Umm, thinking ...

couple view

Hello sweet day !

gompa far view

Pictureque !

The main thing I can remember pretty well about Thiksey Gompa that while wandering around, we naturally entered the Gompa by its side, then sat on a balcony of somewhere low and ate peas ! Despite all the tourists climbing to the top to see the so famous future Buddha Maitreya …

Images of Leh after the flood

August 9th, 2010

Oh wow, we’ve got the pictures of Leh after the flood from the friend !  The town looks completely in ruin … !

Yesterday, we heard that there were five tourists died while they were trekking. Surprised that I haven’t seen any report about the animals yet, really wondering if there is someone who knows what happened to the cows and donkeys in Leh ? They were in the bottom and really near the area of the flood starting …

rotated car

An up-side down car !

bus stand in dirt

Bus stand in dirt

completely broken car

Completely broken car

leh flood bus

Only the roof of a bus that you can see now

damaged house

Damaged house

bsnl sign

Broken BSNL sign after the flood

leh flood truck

A truck is stuck in the sandwich style !

mani wall

The mani wall is sunk in the dirt.

town in dirt

Leh town in dirt

monastery damage

Not sure what they are called, things belong to monastery are swept away

people

Gathering, discussing, or collecting stuff after the flood ?

leh town in ruin

Leh town in ruin

ruin town

Covered by dirt

shoes

Shoes ...

By the way, my previous blogs about the Leh flood got visited thirty times more than my other blogs, impressively just after few seconds since they were posted !

The Momo Mafia

August 9th, 2010

Amazingly, the Tibetan cuisine hasn’t developed, despite existing for several thousand years … ! Still momos and thukpa.

This has been my second time since 2008 in a Tibetan area, and I’ve tried several places in town for momos and thukpa. Have to say that the momos were surprisingly boring (just some cabbage in thick flour, and well, if you’re lucky, you would get some ‘heavy’ mutton in your momos which might make your stomach stuck for a week !), the thukpa (big and soft noodles in clear soup) fell to the same fate because the unflavored flour which is made of barley crops has controlled the whole cuisine, sounds like a Mafia in the Himalayas !

Back to 2008, the Women’s Alliance in Leh made a miracle of creating the ‘reasonable’ momos which can be understood as the best and the most deservable momos that I’ve ever eaten.

momos of women's alliance

''Women's alliance' momos, beautiful round shape and unpredictable delicious taste !

making momos

Women's Alliance are making momos step by step.

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Update on flooding in Leh

August 7th, 2010

This morning, a friend who has been in Leh got connected with us (used satellite), so we had a small chat with him (probably the first tourist who has appeared after the flood !).

According to what he said, ”safe and sound” though the bus stand and parts of Leh are a mess and also the outlying villages. Besides that, there is no electricity in town and only a few shops open, so he got some chocolate and instant noodles (Maggi, gawd, I’d have suggested Wai Wai instead !) from a shop for his dinner because the restaurants are still in the ‘pause’ state. Dealing with no electricity everyday is a normal thing in Leh anyway. At this point, he got hot water, breakfast tea, toast, and eggs from his guesthouse (sounds survival !).

Oh well, the ‘slush’ that the Indian journalists imagined (see comment in previous post) was in fact mud and debris ! BSNL doesn’t exist because the building got completely wiped away (it’s located next to the bus stand). He also said people were asked to evacuate to the Shanti Stupa or the Old Palace for high ground last night (of course he didn’t move ! but many tourists followed the crowd). Plus, the auxiliary police base, near the BSNL office and bus station, was inundated, and he saw them picking out the weapons from the mud … !

Excellently, he got pictures (glad that his camera was in an active state !), but unfortunately, we couldn’t get the pictures right now. He has got Yahoo chat but no websites are coming through, so he cannot get Yahoo or Hotmail while we don’t use either Yahoo (using Pidgin in Linux) to get the pictures via photo sharing or Facebook as his suggestion (my boyfriend has a big allergy to Facebook sign up … ).

Okay, there is one solution that you can use mobile versions for anything you want to visit when using satellite. You can try m.yahoo.com (m.gmail.com, m.flickr.com, …) though it didn’t load in our friend’s case. Anyway, he got Yahoo mail after all, however, the pictures were not loading quickly enough, so he will try later. I guess it’ll be possible to see the pictures tonight !

We have also heard that a couple of hundred vehicles stuck at Barralachla on Wednesday or Thursday, and loads of people were stranded there, waiting in the cold … and perhaps, no edible food !

So I’ve learned that it’s good to fully charge my camera whenever I have electricity and always have supporting products (instant noodles, nuts, dried fruit, chocolate … ) with me !

Luckily, things seem to get back to normal more quickly than we expected. The airport re-opened and active planes this morning. The restaurants are predicted to be opened later today. Therefore, no more threat from the nature around this time, I think, just time for rebuilding the structures.

Anyway, thanks for the friend who gave us such a great update info from Leh ! Hope you will be in comfort soon !

Today’s news – Flood in Leh

August 6th, 2010

No one can oppose the unusual nature !

I’ve just read the latest news which says that 59 dead, over 300 injured in Leh flash floods. Several structures (houses, offices, roads) were washed away, the airport is closed, and the communications are under ‘silence’ because BSNL headquarters are totally damaged …!

While just last night, I and my boyfriend were talking about how lucky Ladakh was compared to other regions of India, where they are sharing the same fate of heavy rains in monsoon, including where we’re staying, Manali, which has been wet most of the time during the monsoon, yet Ladakh was still sunny.

leh

The town of Leh

Completely surprised because in fact, Tanglang La* (‘la’ being Tibetan for ‘pass’), which is over 5000 meters, is able to stop the clouds passing, and therefore, heavy rain is uncommon in Leh. However, nature always brings surprises …

We spent some weeks in Leh during the summer of 2008 while we explored the beautiful Ladakh region.

Here is the link for the news; 59 dead, over 300 injured in Leh flash floods.

* http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanglang_La

I’m back in the Himalayas !

August 6th, 2010

Hello Himalayas ! Pleased to see you again !

I’m back in this lovely mountainous countryside where there are excessive apples, birds, cows, dogs and plenty of fresh air! This seems to disappear completely in where I’ve just left, the beloved hometown, Saigon … ! (which created my allergy to animals, I really believe so!)

Indeed, apples are just everywhere, all kinds, red, green, yellow, and they make me feel so good because of their eye-catching and hand-reach feature ! Since we came back here, it’s been raining dogs and cats most of the time.  The monsoon, however, couldn’t stop our exploration of the area, most of the paths have our footprints, and surely they were muddy, wet, yet we got fed well by an abundance of heavenly fruit, green and red apples, blueberries, strange orange yummy fruit. Noticed the apricots looked so poor at this time while in 2008,  my stomach was so full of these little juicy yellow fruit that I talked about them passionately in two blogs, Oh apricots are running out and Getaway-Phyang.

manali view

Green view !

apple tree

Hello green apples !

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